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The Catch Of The Day

By Knute Hogan,

The Culinarian Magazine

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CAVIAR//December 2008

Caviar is typically defined as the roe or eggs of specific types of sturgeon. Caviar may also be defined as the roe of most any fish. True aficionados feel that only the Beluga, Osetra, and Sevruga caviar-producing sturgeons produce true caviar. Very rare caviar, Sterlet, commands such a high price it is enjoyed by very few consumers. Undoubtedly these fish are the source for the most expensive and rare caviar. Caviar from any other source than sturgeon must be designated by the fish it comes from, such as 'salmon caviar' or 'paddlefish caviar.' If it is listed as 'caviar' on the container it is from sturgeon.

Sturgeon is an ancient species that dates back over 200 million years and has retained many of its prehistoric characteristics. There are at least four dozen species of sturgeon. The Beluga, Osetra, and Sevruga Sturgeon are found in the Caspian Sea. This fishery, shared by Russia and Iran, produces nearly all of the world's wild caviar. Every species of sturgeon is on the endangered list.

The fish eggs most commonly used in domestic caviar are Atlantic Sturgeon, White Sturgeon, Hackleback Sturgeon, Paddlefish, Bowfin Fish, Golden White Fish, Salmon, and Trout. Atlantic sturgeon and Paddlefish caviar are said to resemble Sevruga caviar. Other varieties have distinct flavors, such as Hackelback caviar, which has a sweet and nutty taste.

Fine caviar is rated according to the size and color of the eggs as well as the method of processing. Color is graded as light, medium and dark (000, 00 and 0 respectively). Golden roe is designated Imperial caviar or Royal caviar and is a very light color. While the best caviar has historically been wild sturgeon caviar, with the largest roe and the lightest color, there are delicious less expense alternatives available.

The four processing methods include Malossol which has a salt content of less than five percent. Salted caviar, sometimes called semi-preserved caviar, which contains up to eight percent salt. Salt will extend the shelf life but the flavor will likely be compromised. Pressed caviar is made from too-soft, damaged, broken and overly ripe eggs. The roe is treated, highly salted, pressed to a jam-like consistency and has a strong concentrated flavor. Caviar that is heat-treated and vacuum packed in glass jars is labeled as Pasteurized caviar. The flavor and texture are likely to be affected. Beluga is the most expensive caviar, next to Sterlet. Its roe is very large, ranging in color from black to pale grey, and has a smooth, buttery flavor. Fewer than one hundred Beluga sturgeon are caught each year. Osetra caviar consists of medium-sized eggs, ranging in color from dark brown to light grey and even golden brown. Many prefer Osetra's nutty, slightly fruity flavor over Beluga. The Sevruga sturgeon produces the smallest roe of the three main caviar varieties. More plentiful than the other two, it is also the least expensive. Its roe is black to very light grey in color and, like Beluga; it has a buttery flavor, but saltier, richer, and more intense. Its unique flavor is highly valued.

There was a time when the United States produced the bulk of the world's caviar. So plentiful that it was served in taverns like pretzels are today. Soon the supply was so depleted that production ceased. There are several countries in similar circumstances that have begun sturgeon farming operations to preserve both the species and the industry.

Farm raised sturgeon are recognized as a sustainable aqua culture program where the water quality and temperature are kept at an optimal level, the diet contains no toxins and the environment is free of predators. Their roe is harvested at the ideal time for premium quality caviar. For consumers, it all means a consistently high quality, lower-priced caviar that is not produced from endangered stock.

American caviar does not to refer to any caviar from America, but rather to American lake sturgeon as opposed to Caspian Sea sturgeon. American caviar roe is very similar in characteristics to Caspian Sevruga caviar. Paddlefish caviar has clear, glossy beads, buttery flavor, and steel gray to light or even golden-gray roe. Considered a good substitute for Beluga caviar it is sometimes marketed as American caviar. Hackelback caviar is a rich, glossy black color of medium size and combines the sweet, nutty, and buttery characteristics of other caviars. Bowfin caviar, also known Choupique, is considered another of the better substitutes for Beluga. It has a distinctively sturgeon essence, with a mild flavor and firm black eggs that are smaller than Beluga.

Among the non-sturgeon caviars you will find several varieties. Salmon roe is golden-orange or reddish-orange caviar and a universal favorite of sushi chefs. Its large sized roe has a significant popping characteristic and a distinct salmon flavor. Similarly, trout caviar has large, golden-orange beads but a softer flavor. Whitefish caviar is a small-grained, almost crunchy caviar of the salmon family. A distinctive natural golden color and mild flavor is sometimes infused with ginger, truffle or saffron flavors for added interest. Lumpfish caviar is very inexpensive and versatile. This caviar is from cold waters and has remarkably good flavor considering the low price. The very fine-grained, crunchy roe has a briney flavor that is a good choice for appetizers and garnishes. Both Capelin and Tobiko caviars are available in a variety of colors, these small crisp eggs are regularly featured in sushi bars.

The delicate flavor of caviar dictates that it be accompanied with items that do not overwhelm it. Classic garnishes include small slices of toast, blinis unsalted crackers, crème fraîche or sour cream. Caviar is frequently served with lemon wedges, capers, finely chopped onion and hard cooked egg. Well chilled unflavored vodka and dry champagne match up well with caviar service.

Caviar is very perishable. While an unopened caviar container can stay fresh for up to four weeks when stored in a cooler near thirty degrees, an opened container of caviar will need to be used within three days.

CAVIAR//12.2008

JOHN DORY//09.2008

REDFISH//08.2008

ABALONE//03.2008

AMERICAN LOBSTER//02.2008

MUSSELS//01.2008

AQUACULTURE//11.2007

PACIFIC ROCKFISH//10.2007

ARTIC CHAR //08.2007

BARRAMUNDI//07.2007

WALLEYE PIKE//07.2007

SOFT SHELL CRAB//08.2007

PACIFIC SALMON//05.2007

PACIFIC HALIBUT//04.2007

KAMPACHI //03.2007

SCALLOPS //02.2007

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